Spring days are almost behind us now and I thought now was a good time to look back over these heady days as the Cornish lanes fill with wild flowers and the hedgerows are full of blossom; at the Cornish cliffs decked with sea thrift, with the fabulous vanilla scent of the gorse drifting through the air laced with the tang of sea salt; to remember the ancient stone circles, revealed again this spring, ever enigmatic. within clouds of blue bells and lastly the old engine houses lovingly preserved relics of the Cornish mine industry shrouded now by verdant green, as nature reclaim its own once more from the industrial landscape of the past.
Let me send you a postcard from Mousehole this week, sent from the idyllic former fishing village, beguilingly set around a Cornish harbour just a seagull’s wing across Mounts Bay from us here at Ednovean Farm.
Mousehole is enchanting in the spring, buzzing quietly in the summer and from the picture perfect harbour framed by pretty, former fishermen’s cottages, to the narrow winding streets that have been part of the battle of Cornwall, Mousehole has so much to offer a visitor to West Cornwall.
Cape Cornwall towers above the sea, crowned by a statuesque mine chimney, with fabulous views from the summit back across the sea to Sennen and Land’s End. In fact Cape Cornwall was thought to be the Land’s End until more accurate mapping deposed it from its throne and many Cornishmen hold this to be true to this day. It is well worth taking the time to visit this icon spot whatever your belief to enjoy exploring from the atmospheric fishing cove at its foot, the towering mine chimney on the summit and the ruins of St Helen’s Oratory on one flank.
Continue reading “Explore Cape Cornwall – the other Land’s End” »
There is a little bit of pure Cornish magic about visiting Sennen Cove again – it starts from the moment when the car turns off the main road and the view down to the village is revealed with the stark lifeboat slipway in counterpoint to the dream-like visage of pale golden sands cocooned between a perfect blue sea and sky.
After a long winter, the February heat wave gave rise to nothing but joy upon visiting the sea again.
The reality of the dangers of the stormy seas and the child like joy of walking the sea-shore are always close by in Cornwall and in Sennen the beautiful beach and lifeboat station sit cheek by jowl for the twin faces of the sea.
Logan Rock presides over a beautiful stretch of coast land that sweeps away in one direction passed pale sandy beaches of Pedn Vounder and Porthcurno to the world famous Minack Theatre to the west and guarded by the pale white outline of the Tater Du lighthouse to the east. The Logan Rock takes its name from a the famous rocking stone or Logan that sits high in the rocky cairn set above sculptural honeyed cliffs plunging into clear turquoise blue waters.
We visited the World Famous Minack Theatre at Porthcurno this week on a glorious February day that felt like summer – maybe that is where the phrase “summer in February” came from. The Cornish have a name for these special days – they call them “a day lent” and we took full advantage of the gift, as the car nosed its way between the tall Cornish banks, already laced with daffodils, deep into the wilder countryside of the West Penwith Peninsula.
Rosamunde Pilcher is something of a Cornish icon these days, bringing the fans of her books and films to the south west every summer to soak up some of that special “Pilcheresque” atmosphere. Throughout the winter in Germany the tranquil days of a Cornish summer have been translated into the setting for the Pilcher films leading to the expression that Sunday night is “Pilcher night” or as one of our German bed and Breakfast guest put it “you can sometimes see the same film three times in one year” I gathered his wife was a big fan!
We were thrilled last year when scenes for “Fast Noch Verheiratet” were filmed here at Ednovean Farm and we had the chance to meet some of the cast and crew at work. Our heroine’s bedroom was the Pink bedroom complete with its hand carved four poster bed although she magically walked out through the Blue Bedroom’s French doors, to stand on the terrace gazing at St Michael’s Mount
It is extraordinary how very often it is those sudden unexpected glimpses of the sea that are the most exciting – particular markers in our journeys and hints of a day to come. Rather like the tantalising first ones I used to have on a tediously long childhood car journeys chanting “are we there yet!” until my beleaguered parents set me to scanning the countryside for the first tantalising glimpse of a blue, the first glimpse of the sea is somehow rather special. This week two although we live within sight of it these days two special glimpses of the sea have stayed in my mind to share with you for this week’s blog
I spent a happy hour or so walking under the ribbon of lights that canopied Fore Street in St Ives and made a lasting memory of Christmas magic on an evening spent with friends!
We parked above the town and took one of those mammoth runs of granite steps that snake down to the sea guided by and ex-st-ives-ite who knew the footpaths well and we emerged seamlessly quite near to the town centre to follow a single line of lights as it lead towards the harbour, just as the lightest of drizzles started to fall.
If you are planning to visit just one fishing village in Cornwall then make it Cadgwith sheltering in the lea of the most southerly point of The Lizard.
There is a timeless air about the glorious jumble of thatched cottages hugging the slipway to the sea where the fishing boats lay on the shingle beach waiting for the tide, just as they always have been over the centuries.
Two rough hewn granite posts topped by jaunty ovoid boulders mark the entrance to Cadgwith giving it a sense of stepping back in time to a carefully guarded community unchanging with the centuries.