From the solid harbour of Porthleven to the picturesque fishing village of Mousehole, the communities along the flanks of Mounts Bay give a glimpse of the less commercialized face of West Cornwall. (Give or take a supermarket and car park or two of course!)
Click here to read about the walk
Why not explore the secluded coves, smugglers haunts’ and romantically ruined engine houses that are set around Mounts Bay this year, for a quintessential flavour of Cornwall.
You may remember my post about Exploring the great bays of West Cornwall comparing the beautiful bays of St Ives and Mounts bay?
Mounts Bay
A holiday in Cornwall will call again and again and over the years and the familiar stretch of coastline between the Lizard and the distant vista at Land’s End may have a fond place in your memories. Yet have you stopped to explore more of Mounts Bay?
Mounts Bay is the largest Bay in Cornwall, a half moon of heaven crowned by St Michael’s Mount. This iconic Castle, set on a tidal island, beckons so clearly for a day immersed amongst the turrets, battlements and gardens – with time for a cream tea or too in between! Yet the vast stretch of coastline that stretches from the Lizard to Penzance can take a lifetime of holidays to explore!
Click her for two easy walks from Perranuthnoe around Mounts bay
Have you visited Porthleven?
Porthleven has a laid back vibe, set around the deeply carved granite harbour with a sandy beach beyond. This harbour is perfect for and evening stroll after a long sunny day exploring Cornwall. There’s a smuggler’s pub perched high on one end and a clutch of fabulous contemporary, reasonably priced fish restaurants to choose from. Nevertheless Porthleven doesn’t have the bustling crowds of so many hotspots.
Opposite – A seafood treat at The Square
Hidden Beaches and Secluded Coves – along the shores of Mounts bay
One of the treats when exploring Cornwall is to find a hidden gem of a silent cove and just watch the waves idly lap the shore. For old school an Ordinance Survey map will reveal all the secrets but maybe you’re a Google Map sort of person?
Follow the small roads signs from the A394 and you’ll be surprised at what you may find.
Rinsey Beach
From Ashton delve deeper towards the coast for the National Trust’s heritage coastline at Rinsey – it is well worth a peak. A narrow lane leads to an unmade car park. From here take the cliff top walk, with spectacular views around Mounts bay, to the World Heritage Engine houses or grab a picnic and follow the steep path down to a beautiful sandy beach.
Praa Sands
Drive a hop and a skip further for a more traditional, the family friendly beach of Praa sands – perfect for a bucket and spade and ice cream cone sort of day. Yet if you should turn off at Hendra, at the eastern end of this stretch of golden sands there’s a little less busy spot. For three shortish walks between Prussia Cove and Porthleven Click here
Prussia Cove
Prussia Cove (The name given to a whole cluster of coves) set upon the Porth-an-Als estate and sheltered by Cudden Point has to be a favourite spot to visit. For a vintage day out in unspoilt Cornwall, wander across the headland to find half hidden pathways that might lead to the perfect spot concealed above turquoise seas.
Here’s a walk we took to Piskies Cove
Kennegy Beach
If you’re searching for sandy toes, try Kennegy Beach but be warned it’s cut off at high tide!
South facing Kennegy Beach, is a softer gentler place than the raw wild beauty of Portheras cove but if I half closed my eyes I could still imagine sailing boats lying at anchor a little way from the beach in this timeless place.
Read More
These once infamous coves of Prussia were an established smuggling spot and yet the same ships of Mark would go out into the channel to do battle with the French at the Admiralty’s bidding. Read more of the smugglers history here
The Smugglers of Prussia Cove
The Quartet of coves that consist of Prussia Cove, were guarded so effectively by John Carter, the “King of Prussia” that the Helston Militia withdrew and refuse to venture near again without “Direct orders from the War Office”
These days the coves lay silent and tranquil, with only the occasional bricked up smugglers cellar remaining to tell the tales of long ago. A mere whisper of the long ago days when smugglers plied their trade hidden by Cudden Point from the excise men in Penzance. However, eventually a row of coastguard cottages were built here and the smuggling trade came to an end.
Stackhouse Cove
Beyond Cudden Point, Stackhouse cove is accessible only from the cliff path and so perfect for snorkelling and rock pooling or hunting for the tiny cowry shells left by the tide. We used to swim to one of the tiny beaches below the cliff, to picnic beside a sea cave cut off from the world until the tide retreated. The nearest car park is in Perranuthnoe to the west or Prussia Cove to the east.
Perranuthnoe
The tranquil village of Perranuthnoe is poised at the bottom of a valley, just beside the coastal footpath – although you may be seduced by the big sandy beach, the foodie cafes or the gastro pub to want to venture very far!
Venture westwards from Perranuthnoe and the soft earthy cliffs dip close to the sea. This popular walking route passes several pretty coves that are popular with locals and sea birds, before reaching the town of Marazion.
Opposite: – Trenow Cove at sunset
Marazion
The ancient town of Marazion is the gateway to the must see Castle or Priory of St Michael’s Mount.
Marazion was originally two market villages that grew together over time. The granite square is flanked by hotels, galleries and local shops with tables set invitingly outside of local pubs.
Marazion must have one of the biggest beaches on Mounts Bay. The coast road wends its way between the dunes and the RSPB Marshes to follow the sands all the way into Penzance.
This beach is a magnet for wind surfers and kite surfers, small yachts and gig rowers set against the romantic backdrop of St Michael’s Mount. Should you tire of that sunny spot watching the world go by, then a granite causeway snakes from the mainland for half a mile to St Michael’s Mount.
Or maybe follow the three miles of sands towards Penzance? Follow part one of The Penwith tour here for more information about this stretch of coastline!
Penzance
Penzance is a solid Stannary town with granite clad streets set above the leisure and working harbours and dry dock. A broad Promenade dating from days of Victorian is evocative of that bygone era. Discover the rare Art Deco Lido along the way around Mounts Bay before reaching the commercial fishing port of Newlyn.
“The Stannary town of Penzance is more of solid, middle of the road, type of dowager, in comparison to the fashionable thirty something of St Ives.
Yet explore and you will find a rewarding companion in the sleepy granite streets. Streets that still echo with memories a whisper of the Medieval town, the shades of the seafaring pirates and smugglers and the wrapped in the solid dignity of a former Stannary town shaped by the Cornish Tin Industry.”
Explore Penzance Stannary town and harbour
Mousehole
Mousehole! This enchanting former fishing village beside a harbour is said to resemble a Mousehole. A final destination that’s not to be missed as the conclusion to your Tour of Mounts Bay.
A perfect spot for atmospheric seafood suppers beside the lapping waves in Summertime. Yet a winter enchantment when decked with the famous lights at Christmas.
Read more about Mousehole in my picture Postcard from a spring day or take a late winter walk to Lamorna
I hope that you will enjoy exploring more of the romantic sweep of Mounts bay on your next holiday in Cornwall. From Mousehole look back across bay to The Lizard and plan another adventure beyond Porthleven. You know! I might join you!
Parking and loos!
- Porthleven
- Rinsey
- Prussia Cove (no loos)
- Perranuthnoe
- Marazion
The Penwith Tour
The Penwith Tour is a wonderfully atmospheric drive around the west Penwith Peninsular.
Many years ago when I started this WordPress blog I covered “The Penwith Tour” in depth.
Of course these days West Penwith is more commonly referred to as West Cornwall.
I hope that you will find this blog useful when planning you holiday in West Cornwall this year! Why not save the blog ready for your holiday?
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