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Perranuthnoe

November 21, 2016

Perranuthnoe's golden sandy beach known locally as Perran Sands

Perranuthnoe lies in a secluded corner of Mounts bay, tucked at the bottom of a valley just above the sea. Most visitors miss Perranuthnoe as they race along the A394 to explore The Lizard  or Land’s End but for those that do spot the narrow lane turning of the main “A” road, well it leads down to a sandy beach, a peaceful unspoilt village of traditional Granite Farmhouses and cottages, all clustered below the square church tower – it is just waiting to be found.

Perranuthnoe - a secluded coastal village above a sandy beach


Contents of my blog about Perranuthnoe

  1. Perranuthnoe’s beaches and Coves
  2. Perranuthnoe – a brief history of the village
  3. Perranuthnoe church
  4. Shops and Galleries
  5. Tin and silver mines around Perranuthnoe
  6. Places to eat
  7. Walking from Perranuthnoe

Perranuthnoe’s beaches and Coves


Perran sands

Perranuthnoe's golden sandy beach known locally as Perran Sands
The unspoilt sandy beach below Perranuthnoe sheltered by Cudden Point

The broad beach of golden sands is revealed at low tide. It can be reached via a long slipway or the steep original steps. The beach is flanked by soft red clay cliffs fringed by Tamarisk flanked either end by ragged granite outcrops. The cliffs are now partly protected from erosion by the recent addition of boulders on the western end. The long gently shelving sandy expanse is safe for bathing and it is a great beach for novice surfers and several surf schools train there.

If you visit the beach in the evening you may well spot local fisherman settling down for night fishing for the bass that come into feed on the tide. We visited the beach recently on lovely afternoon and you can find my latest snaps here of our local beach Perranuthnoe 

A surf school training before entering the sea at Perranuthnoe
Perranuthnoes safe sandy beach from the coastal footpath


Trebarvah Beach

Trebarvah beach linked to Perranuthnoe
Just east of Perranuthnoe a hidden slipway leads to Trebarvah Beach reached by a hidden slipway or walk along the sands from perran at very low tide.

This beach smaller and more secluded beach at the eastern end of Perran sands and links to the main beach at very low tides At one point there used to be a little slipway to and I do remember dragging my reluctant horse across the rocks from it in the ‘70’s to enjoy galloping along and across the main beach but now you will have to clamber over the rocks or wait until a low tide to walk along the sea shore.


Trevean Cove

Trevean Cove
Trevean Cove lay silent below the coastal footpath

To find Trevean Cove, walk along the coastal footpath to the east of Perranuthnoe and open the a five bar gate to the cove. (used to keep the cattle in the fields above back from the shore!) The grass slipway leads over the broad rocky ledges to the mostly rocky cove and a steady stream used to run from a mine adit as you entered the cove but a landslide covered it and years later it is only now starting to run again. It is a quiet, seldom visited cove with sandy channel at low tide leading out to sea and a favourite haunt of sea birds who spend theirs days on the rocks here. Look out if you are passing for the remains of a cement vessel sometimes revealed at very low tide.


Boat Cove

Boat Cove west of Perranuthnoe
The final Boat shed at Boat Cove photo 2009

Only the name of Boat Cove remains now as a reminder of the fishermen that would make living from this Cove just west of Perran beach again along the coastal footpath.

Fishing huts on Boat Cove

As years passed the small collection of fishing huts were reduced to one. The keys would be passed from one retiring fisherman to the next until finally the key for the last hut was passed to the National Trust. The last fishing hut was a splendidn creation by then, with its roof held on fishing nets and patched with an interesting collection of driftwood.

It was finally taken down before it fell into the sea amidst fears for Health and Safety and I looked it up on my old blog was written about it in February 2009. I think the snap I have of the cove in its entirety, was taken in 2007 and still show the precipitous slipway that was used to carry boat engine up to the boat house at the end of the season.

Boat house Boat Cove
The last Boat house at Boat Cove near Perranuthnoe


Trenow Cove

Trenow Cove
Trenow beach after an autumn storm with Marazion beyond

Explore Trenow cove just west of Perranuthnoe along the coastal footpath or along a bridleway that runs from the end of the tarmac road tbeyond village church.

It is a beautifully sheltered sandy cove with soft earthy cliffs again edged by Tamarisk, reached by an earth slipway over the stream that emerges from a mine adit.

Trenow Cove – site of Wheal Charlotte

Wheal Charlotte stood just above this cove until it was destroyed by a mine disaster when her boiler blew up but I believe the remains of the old blacksmith shop are part of a garage just before you reach the cove.


Perranuthnoe a brief history

A view to Perranuthnoe

The changing name for Perranuthnoe reflects local history and it is best to look at the name in two halves starting with the Uthnoe a derivative from the very early recorded Odenol and it is thought to still echo its origins of the name of the Ednovean farm which I have written about in the meaning of “Ednovean”


The manor of Uthnoe, first recorded in the Doomsday book held by “Britric” with the previous holder listed as “Haemar” with the population recorded as  three slaves, seven villagers and eight smallholders.

To trace the manor of Uthnoe is to find an interesting mix of half know facts and legend not least the mention of John Trevelyan 1452 who became Lord of the manor by virtue of his marriage to his cousin Elizabeth the daughter and heiress to Thomas Whalesborough and his lineage held the manor until 1939. The Trevelyan coat of Arms can still be seen outside of the Trevelyan Arms in Goldsithney and it features a leaping horse, which commemorates the legend that a Trevelyan escaped from the Lost Land of Lyonesse with such a strong swift white horse, that he was able to escape the sea that rushed in to submerged land. (Lyonesse lay between Land’s End and The Isles of Scilly) I have heard that the Trevelyan’s always kept a horse saddled in their stables overnight to commemorate the event and just in case……….!

The prefix of “Perran comes from St Piran who sailed across from Ireland floating on a millstone as one of the early Celtic priest to preach to  the Pagan population. It is said that St Piran performed many wonderful deeds in Ireland. Sadly he eventually fell from favour and he was strapped to a millstone and thrown from the cliffs into the sea. Legend has it that at that moment there was a flash of light and he was seen serenely floating away sitting on the millstone. The first known church in Perranuthnoe dates from 1160.
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Perranuthnoe Church
 

Perranuthnoe church in the oldest churchtown area of Perranuthnoe seen from Ednovean Farm
Perranuthnoe church in the oldest churchtown area of Perranuthnoe seen from Ednovean Farm

Perranuthnoe church was dedicated to St Piran and Saint Michael in 1400 but the first known church on the site dates from 1160. From the first church, only the Norman doorway with its three strange heads, a now blocked doorway visible from the churchyard, the archway of the south transept, behind the pulpit and the transept itself remain.

The church has been extensively remodelled and renovated over time but the13th century granite font is one of the few of its period in Cornwall. The church was largely rebuilt in the 15th century with the tower heightened in 1470. The four pinnacles that you see today were added as a landmark for shipping – this was customary in most Cornish villages. The bells that now hang in the tower date from 1636, 1688 and 1832 what a link with history sounds as they ring over the village on a sunny evening.

By the late 19th century the church had fallen into such a bad state of repair that it was largely rebuilt at the cost of £1,410. During this renovation the old pews and woodwork were lost and the old floor taken up to reveal that it was full of graves. Tthe grandest brick built tomb of the former rector Reverend Johnson (1815-1849) was sealed and preserved and the rest levelled and covered with fresh soil.


Mining in Perranuthnoe
 

Mining in Perranuthnoe

Mining was a major industry throughout Cornwall employing men women and children in dangerous, desperate conditions.  The principal mines of Wheal Neptune, Wheal Charlotte and Perran silver here in Perranuthnoe yielded Copper and silver with Tin mined a little further inland behind Goldsithney at Tregurtha Downs. Written records were few but we were fortunate to find a map of the underground workings for Wheal Neptune

 


Wheal Neptune Copper Mine – James and William Gundry

The earliest mining record date from the last quarter of the eighteenth century and Wheal Neptune was the most important mine of the Parish. At the busiest period for the mine in 1815 – 1820, 13 shafts were in operation. All of the hoisting was done by horse whims and the mine was drained by a 52in. cylinder pumping engine. By 1821 the mine had reached its maximum depth of 115 fathoms below the 15 fathom adit and yet by 1823 the mine stopped working. She had produced over 10.000 tons of ore and was reopened briefly in 1838 to produce a further 3,000 tons. The total production of ore made in the working life of Wheal Neptune yielded £200.000 in profit with every £5 share yielding £1,750.

Thomas Gundry left instruction that upon his death, he was to be buried upon a copper load that ran through Perranuthnoe churchyard. When the grave diggers prepared the grave in teh place he insructed them to, they did indeed find the copper load.


Map of the underground workings for Wheal Neptune

Wheal Neptune underground workings


Charlotte United group of lodes – Wheal Charlotte, Trenow Consoles and Perran Silver

Trenow adit

Records are few but record Wheal Charlotte producing 6675 tons of rich ore 1844 – 1856 and also a visit by Prince Albert. Prince Albert arrived by steamer to Trenow Cove to inspect the magnificent 85in cylinder engine fitted in the lower mine before ceremonially breaking a piece of ore with a pick.


These days very few traces remain of the industrial landscape as nature has healed the wounds – just the occasional spoil heap now clothed with gorse and home to wildlife and small man made entrances disgorging flowing water on to the beach. (these usually have some form of grid to protect the public!) For examples stroll along Perranuthnoe main beach to the eastern end and you will see a couple of mine adit cut into the soft earth cliffs and at Trenow a small stream flows on to the beach protected by a grid.


The collapse of the copper industry in the South West

  • The Copper industry collapsed between 1866-67, sparking a wave of emigration.  D.B. Barton in his Essays in Mining History quotes figures from the Royal Cornwall Gazette – the figures given are for men only, not counting wives and children.

“The wave of emigration that took place in 1866-67 consequent upon the calamitous collapse of the south-west’s copper mining industry was a particularly massive one.  In April 1867 it was estimated that the number of men that had departed from Cornwall with the previous few months had been 3,236” (page 48)

 “The effect on one parish, that of St Just, may be taken as representative of the whole, even though this was not primarily a copper mining district and thus was not as hard hit as some, Here in 1861 there has been 1661 inhabited houses; by July 1867 there were only a thousand – or, in other terms, one in three stood empty and in some cases abandoned.” (Page 48)

Mining in Perranuthnoe – odd facts

  • Perranuthnoe Parish was mined extensively for Copper not tin. 
  • The result of secondary mineralization has certain uniformity to it and while closer to the emanative centre tin is formed, copper is found further away. 
  • Perranuthnoe lies on a copper deposit
  • The only tin of any significance has come from the Tregurtha Group (Goldsithney) and it has been postulated that a small emanative zone lies on Tregurtha Downs
historic photo of silver mine in Perranuthnoe
Perran Silver Mine. Photo credit and thanks to Phil Trevena for this historic image

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Perranuthnoe shops and Galleries


Lynfield Craft Centre

There are a small group of shops in the old farmyard for Lynfield Farm at the bottom of the village near the beach in Perranuthnoe


Linen and Clay

it's a tiny shop but packed full of interesting and unique items

A tiny light filled shop run by Anna Hewitt and Claire Garland offering a carefully curated and yet eclectic range of gorgeous stock. I spotted hand thrown pottery vying for my attention with textured cushions and the addition of artisan breads from Baker Tom and Kelp Bakeries. I took my snaps near to Christmas time which is probably why there is a witty reference to Coca Cola in the display (Note to self must type faster!)

Opening times Tuesday to Friday 11.00am – 4.00 p.m. Saturday 2.00pm – 4.30 and Sunday 12.00 – 4.30

Linen and clay Perranuthnoe
A fresh light interior and an inspiring carefully curated stock


Toppers Too

Jenny moved her thriving hairdressing business to Perranuthnoe as soon as Lynfield Craft centre opened and the tine frontage always emanates gales of laughter as Jenny plies her trade within. Jenny honed her trade working on cruise ships before tending to the local and visitor locks alike. To find Jenny –  Toppers Too, Lynfield Craft Centre, Perranuthnoe Penzance. TR20 9NF Tel: 01736 711359


The Cowhouse Gallery

The Cowhouse Gallery is run by a co-operative of artists and craftspeople living in Wet Cornwall and has a far reaching range of unique stock at quite frankly wonderful prices. It is always my first stop when I’m looking for presents in the ever changing designs. I took a few snaps when I was passing the other week.

The Cowhouse Gallery in Perranuthnoe
The cowhouse Gallery in Perranuthnoe
Hand turned wooden bowls
Beautiful hand turned wooden bowls making full use of the grain and idiosyncrasies of the wood
The cowhouse gallery
A flamboyant pottery piece in the Cowhouse Gallery

 
Andrew Giddens Studio Gallery

Artist in studio - Andrew Giddens

What better place for a studio for an artist passionate about the moods of the sea but within ear shot of the roar of the swell from Perranuthnoe’s beach. Many of our guests have spent a happy hour chatting with Andrew and returned with a painting discreetly tucked under one arm from their walk to the village!

On the day I visited Andrew had a work in progress on his easel. Andrew make his seascapes zing by starting with a red ground over teh bare canvass. Then as he builds up his painting, he may scratch back some of the layers to reveal a few flecks of vibrant red.

Visit Andrew’s web site  – Cornish Art and read his blog for an insight into his work


Wellyracks

Follow the lane to the further to the sea and you will spot Wellyracks.  Welly racks are a great solutions for welly owners (and if you live in or visit the country a pair are just about compulsory) They make a unique hand crafted wellie storage and they are individually made in the old chapel.  Just perfect for every country home, they come  painted in soft country chic colours or in glowing natural wood. Visit Kay and Geoffs Website http://www.wellyracks.com/index.html

Wellyracks holding wellington boots

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Perranuthnoe Café’s and Pubs
 


The Victoria Inn

Victoria Inn in Perranuthnoe with walking distance of Ednovean Farm
Victoria Inn in Perranuthnoe within walking distance of Ednovean Farm

Perranuthnoe’s fine old pub the Victoria Inn probably started life in the 12th century. Yet it still has a reassuringly solid Cornish feel to the old stone walls, combined with modern stylish touches. The Victoria has established a huge local reputation for great food over the years.

There’s a Mediterranean style courtyard for long summer evenings and roaring log fire for winter nights. The menu reflects the season with traditional game for the cooler months and delicious seafood for the summer.

Check out the menus on the Victoria Inn’s website for the latest info!


The Cabin

sunset over the sea framed by tamarisk from a beach cafe
Sunset reflected on tales at The cabin in Perranuthnoe
Nordic style cabin beach cafe in Perranuthnoe
picnic table and chairs above the sea

The Cabin Cafe is perched right on the cliff edge,a stylish wooden café with great views over the beach. Unsurrisngly it is not only a magnet for walkers following the coastal path, the surfers and beach users and a fair smattering of dedicated locals. They are drawn by the mix of barista style coffee, home made cakes, cream teas and lunchtime offerings ranging from Greek salads to Shepherds pie. Sit in the light filled café or the cliff top garden listening to the roar of the surf below.

For more info check out The Cabin website


The Peppercorn

The Peppercorn cafe set in Lynnfield - a range of traditional white washed cornish builders under a blue sky in Perranuthnoe craft cnetre

The Peppercorn Café is set on the end of the Lynnfield craft centre group of converted farm building beside two of Perranuthnoe’s art galleries. Choose to sit outside and admire the views to Cudden Point on fine days or snuggle up beside the log burning stove in the cooler months. The Peppercorn is under new management this year but still offers the same delicious homemade cakes and Gluten free options.

Check out The Peppercorn’s website

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Walking around Perranuthnoe

Perranuthnoe is a wonderful centre for walking the coastal footpath. Choose between the eastern route towards Cudden point and Prussia Cove or turn the westwards to Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. We enjoyed the walk to Trenow Cove in the autumn 
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More reading from Local websites based in Perranuthnoe

For latest news of Perranuthnoe visit Perranuthnoe’s official website 

For photos of village life and news, Sue and Jim’s Around Perranuthnoe Blogspot http://aroundperranuthnoe.blogspot.co.uk/

Luxury Bed and Breakfast in Perranuthnoe

Perranuthnoe secluded coastal village
Dusk brings a last glimpse of Perranuthnoe from the Ednovean Farm garden

Bed and Breakfast at Ednovean Farm  Luxury five star B&B, with lovely gardens and sea views, overlooking the peaceful village of Perranuthnoe.

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About Christine Taylor

Christine has written a weekly blog about life at Ednovean Farm and interesting places to visit in West Cornwall for over ten years now, concentrating on those off the beaten track places that only the locals find.

Charles and Christine Taylor have hosted Luxury Bed and Breakfast at Ednovean Farm Nr Penzance in West Cornwall since 1991 and live there with three cats and five horses, including a Spanish Stallion called Danni.

Ednovean Farm has been awarded AA five star gold for Bed and breakfast and is included in The Michelin Guide and The Alastair Sawday Guide .

The Farmhouse and gardens has been featured in BBC Homes and Antiques, Homes and Gardens. Period Living and 25 Beautiful Homes as well as being used as a film and photo shoot location.

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