This was a walk through a winter landscape just as spring starts to call. A walk that combined the abandoned cliff top daffodil fields and the Edwardian Artists colony in Lamorna. And finally it was a walk to retrace fond memories of a walk with Blaize our lurcher – ooh maybe 35 years ago.
I had hoped to walk from Mousehole to Lamorna for some time!
It’s a 2 mile walk from Mousehole to Lamorna!
A day dawned when the delicious ripple of spring was in the air and teased us from our winter hibernation. We walked under exquisite skies with the scent of the wildflowers drifting around us and the sound of the sea in our ears.
The path here had easy sections interspersed by a downright assault course of rocks, steps and clambers all within a whisper of the sea.
This walk is definitely a good choice of walk if suffering from calorie regret. Although personally, I was still keeping a close eye on Charles and his retreating pasty pack.
A blue sky day for memories!
Well upon the first attempt we found a nice free parking spot in Raginnis and made a brief sortie along a bridle path – before turning around again wrapped in a cloud of doubt!
In the end, Mousehole looked far too tempting below us and we carried our picnic down through the cluster of cottages.
We picked our way across the empty harbour and luxuriated in the winter sunshine perfectly cocooned from the winter winds.
It was quite soporific. Just sitting in the sunshine, watching a gaggle of seabirds and the occasional visitors, absorbing the atmosphere. This was not the bustling Mousehole of the summertime though and if you half closed your eyes you could almost pretend that you had stepped back to earlier era of tourism.
This was a day that really was Summer in February. (The book set the Edwardian era by Jonathan Smith that traces the last halcyon pre war days of the Lamorna Artist colony .)
So a day lent, egg and cress sandwiches and a crafty bird for company – all that was needed to while away an hour of two beside the sea.
So Lamorna must wait! Yet we enjoyed the hint of Summer in February inspired by the artists colony there!
The coastal path to Lamorna
However, I had a cunning plan to finish the Mousehole to Lamorna Cove walk. The sign said Lamorna 2 miles after all- what could possibly go wrong?
So it was on a second occasion, armed this time with pasties and a flask of tea, that we tackled the path again.
The bridle path swung easily uphill under the dappled sunlight through the trees. Occasionally a pheasant would call or the sounds of the sea would drift towards us to interrupt our revelry.
We were soon intrigued to discover an abandoned barn comfortably decaying back into the earth and explore the almost verdant interior.
Two “very fit walkers” strode passed us, as we peaked and peered, admiring the lost world of the workplace that spoke of centuries of toil.
Further along we came across an old lookout, meticulously boarded up in the interests of “health and safety” no doubt but with splendid views across the bay.
Here the Mount was little more that a dot within the fairy tale in the narrative of the bay.
Finally the pathway gained the heathland and dipped down the steep hillside closer to the sea.
After descending what felt like several tower blocks, the path turned beside the sea and almost instantly the warmth of spring was channelled and trapped within the contour of the hillside.
A Sweet Deliciously scented perfume from the old fashioned daffodils and bold deep violets enveloped us.
Yet how hard the work must have been labouring beside the bay to bring the early blooms to market.
The stand of Pine trees finally came into sight of Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve- tantalising us with the promise that Lamorna must be just around the corner – probably!
Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve
The trees of Kemyel Crease Nature reserve was purchased by the Cornwall Wildlife Trust in 1974. Originally the pines sheltered over one hundred Victorian market gardens for the production of flowers and potatoes.
The tiny steep terraces were know as quillets. I was intrigued by this term, of course, and later looked it up!
Quillets – A small parcel of land within a field or area. In short it appears to be a legal term originating from French Medieval law with possible Latin influences. I enjoyed reading this article as an insatiable gatherer of odd facts!
Forest Bathing – Shinrin-yoku
One of the the highlights of our walk was the return walk through the trees immersed in the most delicious air. “Forest Bathing” I airily decreed to Charles!
Have you heard of it? Exponents of Shinrin-yoku explain it as “The practise of finding calm and quiet amongst the trees to improve physical and mental wellbeing, reduce stress, free creativity, lower heart rate and blood pressure and boost the immune system and recovery.”
Kemyel Crease is approximately one mile from Lamorna Cove
As we rounded the cliff and clambered down the waterfall Lamorna came into view. Charles was already heading with some determination to a suitable eerie in a cairn to admire the view!
The pasties were still warm and the tea from the thermos, hot and sweet. We had no regrets as we admired the view and watched the “very fit couple” clinging to the narrow cliff walk as they climbed up from Lamorna!
This summer Penlee House is showcasing the colony in a exhibition from the 3rd of May, 2023 until the 30th of September, 2023
Lamorna Colony Painters
Samuel John Lamorna Birch 1869 – 1955
Lamorna Birch settled near Lamorna and painted extensively around the area. He was a quiet diffident figure, from the mills of the north, that rose to be a member of The Royal Academy. He was largely self taught and yet he became a father figure to the Post Impressionist Artists working at the early part of the twentieth Century.
I hope that you’ve enjoyed our late winter walk from Mousehole to Lamorna.
We have some vacancies this spring to share the wonderful springtime approaching us and some very special discounts! Check out our Reservations page for details. Until then here’s a final gallery of our day out walking from Mousehole to Lamorna!