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Two harbours – two great seafood suppers

June 20, 2018

view across Mousehole harbour

There is certain mellowness about those dusky evenings, when the winter storms are spent and the summer sea laps languidly against ancient harbour walls. Here in west Cornwall we are spoilt with so many lovely sheltered harbours to visit for a seafood supper and we recently made our way around Mounts Bay to renew our acquaintance with Mousehole and Newlyn.


Newlyn and Mousehole – two harbours that are perfect for enjoying a seafood supper

The contrasting harbour views we always see gleaming in the sunlight across the bay from us each herald two very different harbours.
Newlyn still a rugged working port and Mousehole a melow cluster of fishermen’s  cottages fringing a delightful tiny beach with time worn sea walls.

We had two very different seafood suppers one was contempary and ovene very traditional but both were on mellow evenings. Just perfect for absorbing the atmosphere of the end of the day in Cornwall.


Supper at the Mackerel Sky In Newlyn

Fish restaurant facade close to Newlyn harbour - Mackerel Sky

We visited Mackerel Sky again, a bit of a fishy haven and we were so lucky that the waiter found us the last remaining table tucked in a corner on the pavement.

crab claws on the menu eating near a harbour Newlyn
Charles had a starter of Crab claws

Charles was in his element with a starter of crab claws whilst I chose sea bream and  the Mounts’ Bay sole cooked with samphire and capers was just too hard to resist , with a shared side of new potatoes and salad.

Somehow the waft of garlic and the bustle of traffic made our evening in Newlyn  all the more enjoyable in our pavement haven and a complete break from our ordinary lives.

pavement restaurant - seafood tapas Newlyn
Seafood Tapas with a great Gin and Tonic as we watched an orderly queue form for a table
Fisherman's memorial on the sea wall at Newlyn harbour

Newlyn Harbour


Newlyn harbour still has fishing fleet working from the port and the other evening they were moored, clanking gently as we drove passed.  Slightly battered veterans of many nautical miles and lashing waves, now neatly moored with all of the air of a sailor in port.

Newlyn isn’t just about the fishing though, it is host to a burgeoning arts scene with smart galleries and design studios jostling with the old pubs and restaurants. Check out the Contemporary Newlyn Gallery established in 1895 or the Newlyn Filmhouse or for a spot of retail therapy the famous Welbeck Tiles beloved of glossy interiors magazines.

On the evening we visited Newlyn, the new Aircraft carrier the Queen Elizabeth II was an arresting site. She was moored quite near to the village and we’d already watched the helicopters ferrying stores to her for the afternoon. Sorry my little camera doesn’t do her majestic size justice but I did share some great pro photos to our B&B facebook page

An evening in Newlyn

queen elizabeth aircraft carrier off of Newlyn
The Queen Elizabeth II an honoured visitor to Cornwall

 

An evening beside Mousehole Harbour

brightly coloured surfboards stacked beside a cornish harbour

We haven’t visited Mousehole since the Christmas lights so it was a real contrast to see the harbour that evening in a holiday mood, in the last of the days golden sunshine.

Mousehole harbour entrance
Fearless small boys jumped joyously from the harbour walls

Little boys in wet suite plunged fearlessly into the waters and surf boards were carefully stacked against the walls beside a tiny beach. We parked again under the tall granite harbour wall before ambling around the harbour to the Ship Inn for the traditional seaside favourite of Fish and Chips.

Traditional fish and chips in harbourside pub

We spent two very different evenings absorbing the atmosphere around a Cornish harbour and each one as enjoyable as the last with great suppers of contemporary fish tapas or traditional pub food.

Last of the days sunshine on Mousehole harbour

Were will you be wondering on a dusky evening in Cornwall I wonder?

evening on a cornish harbour
Top tip sort our the change for the car park before walking to the machine! Charles happily waiting for me

Try my Little Black book of Great places to eat within easy reach of Ednovean Farm!

For more inspiration about local places to eat do try my little black book of great places to eat!

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About Christine Taylor

Christine has written a weekly blog about life at Ednovean Farm and interesting places to visit in West Cornwall for over ten years now, concentrating on those off the beaten track places that only the locals find.

Charles and Christine Taylor have hosted Luxury Bed and Breakfast at Ednovean Farm Nr Penzance in West Cornwall since 1991 and live there with three cats and five horses, including a Spanish Stallion called Danni.

Ednovean Farm has been awarded AA five star gold for Bed and breakfast and is included in The Michelin Guide and The Alastair Sawday Guide .

The Farmhouse and gardens has been featured in BBC Homes and Antiques, Homes and Gardens. Period Living and 25 Beautiful Homes as well as being used as a film and photo shoot location.

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Christine and Charles Taylor,
Ednovean Farm, Ednovean Lane,
Perranuthnoe, Nr Penzance,
Cornwall TR20 9LZ

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