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Winter picnic beside the healing sea

January 6, 2023

A walk beside the Cornish sea is a wonderful antidote to Christmas, after the days of calorific over indulgence in the rituals of the season. Well who can resist Christmas Pudding!

Winter in Cornwall beside the sea
The tide was high when we reached Piskies Cove. The relentless waves were spectacular, sending plumes of sea spray across the cliffs before sudden moments of calm.

Our winter picnic was just as we had hoped. Piskies cove was warmed by the winter sunshine, immersed in the rhythms of the sea and bathed in the negative ions that only form besides moving water. Yes, it was the perfect antidote to Christmas.

A day lent for a Winter picnic

Prussia Cove - rocky smuggling coves with great views
The coastline stretched beyond Prussia Cove to The Lizard just visible on the horizon

New Year’s Day dawned with clear blue skies and bright sunshine. It was a day lent from summertime in fact. A day that was far too tempting not to pack a picnic and choose a walk to a secluded cove.

A winter visit to Prussia Cove

We headed along to the next village and turned across Rosudgeon common to Prussia Cove. These are a spectacular group of coves, once infamous as a smugglers den with far reaching views around Mounts bay.

winter walk through the flotsam of another age
The footpath winds up passed Bessie’s Cove to through the old fisherman’s huts

As our Christmas day walk on Perranuthnoe Beach proved, quiet a few other people had the same idea again! Still, there were still just two spots left in the little car park above Bessie’s Cove. It took a short discussion about whether the car was front or rear drive before the vintage Priscilla Peugeot was edged into place beside an impressive pot hole. The young couple who took the last spot dispensed with the discussion to park with a crunch of the front spoiler but then their car was considerable younger.

The Warspite ran aground here - efforts were made to salvage her

Our winter walk along the cliffs

We passed the headland where the last remnants of the attempts to salvage the Warspite still linger.

Here we paused to watch the relentless rhythm of the seas, before turning again to the narrow path.

Winter Seas

It was approaching high tide and the sea formed a swirling maelstrom around the rocks and zawns below as we set off westwards to Piskies, the outermost Cove.

The swirling winter seas send healing ions into the air
A life affirming walk beside teh winter seas - view from the path
The seas glittered below us before thrashing into the rocks with an explosion of white spray

Walking beside the sea

The bluest sea glittered enticingly below us, sparkling through the tamarisk trees, yet with a soundtrack of an angry roar.

Occasionally we met other walker. Most had a dog or three on a lead. Labradors and long dogs; busy spaniels and terriers; couples and families. All walking the coastal path to their chosen spots or returning replete from their adventure.

Discover a hidden cove - walker above wild seas

A little hidden pathway

 Finally Charles spotted the narrow chink in the trees that leads to Piskies Cove. It was magnificent framed by the rocky outcrops of Little Cudden Point and we were finally alone except for two seagulls.

Eventually two more people spotted the path and went to gaze in awe at the rolling seas. However we’d enjoyed the little cove all to ourselves for a blissful winter picnic.

Sea air and negative Ions

The sea air, charged with negative ions, will raise serotonin levels, aide oxygen absorption into the blood and deliver a natural Christmas detox with absolutely no charge!

The tangy scent of the sea is produces by dimethyl sulphide gas and just breathing it can help to improve sleep. So with this in mind, a warm coat and cosseting thermos, here are three local beach walks for you to try!

Three Beach Walks
Two figures dwarfed by rolling waves - Piskies Cove - Prussia


Bessie’s Cove

As we walked back towards the car there was a temptation to visit just one more cove  So Bessie’s Cove beckoned us, just below the fishing huts that we’d passed earlier on our walk.  

Old slipway to historic Cornish smugglers cove
The water swirled silently below the cliffs here in stark contrast to the boiling seas beyond
Melancholy history is never far away

The steep slipway here marks the history of Bessie’s Cove as a mooring for smugglers vessels and the occasional “Ships of Mark” The fleet of John Carter the self styled “Prince of Prussia”.

The water is always still here, along with an air of brooding melancholy that embraces the very cliffs around it.

“This cove was named after Bessey Bussow who kept and Ale House there known as a “wink.” A secret passage ran from the back of the cave in the cove to the ale house above. Part of the alehouse is now included in Cliff Cottage and the grooves cut by the wheels can still be seen on the stone of the cove today.”

Read More of the history


There’s always a temptation to explore further, yet for now, we were content and refreshed by our winter walk beside the Cornish sea.

The route back to the car park passes little gateways that lead to hidden cottages and even a brightly painted post box for the inhabitants. There’s always something new to see, no matter how often you will dip into the rich Cornish coastline.

Directions!

  • Prussia Cove lays below the historic Porth-an-Als Estate.
  • Take the Penzance to Helston A394
  • Turn seawards beside teh Fish and chip shop in Rosudgeon
  • Follow the lane out across the common to the sea
  • The Lane finishes at a tiny complimentary car park
Winter walker beside old fisherman's huts


Ancient milestone marked Lamorna, Newlyn, Mousehole

Winter and Spring break in Cornwall?

Winter and early spring is the perfect time to find the healing life affirming balm of the seas. If you feel tempted to visit the sea once more, why not check out our discounts for three day winter and spring short breaks!

Check spring vacancies!

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About Christine Taylor

Christine has written a weekly blog about life at Ednovean Farm and interesting places to visit in West Cornwall for over ten years now, concentrating on those off the beaten track places that only the locals find.

Charles and Christine Taylor have hosted Luxury Bed and Breakfast at Ednovean Farm Nr Penzance in West Cornwall since 1991 and live there with three cats and five horses, including a Spanish Stallion called Danni.

Ednovean Farm has been awarded AA five star gold for Bed and breakfast and is included in The Michelin Guide and The Alastair Sawday Guide .

The Farmhouse and gardens has been featured in BBC Homes and Antiques, Homes and Gardens. Period Living and 25 Beautiful Homes as well as being used as a film and photo shoot location.

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Christine and Charles Taylor,
Ednovean Farm, Ednovean Lane,
Perranuthnoe, Nr Penzance,
Cornwall TR20 9LZ

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