We set out to walk along the coastal footpath, threading across the fields from Ednovean Farm along the ancient footpaths that drop execrably down towards the sea. As we emerged at Trebarvah, there is a spellbinding view down over Perranuthnoe to St Michael’s Mount, which is so evocative of an impressionist painting.
From here a church way (probably used to access the church and carry the coffins down to the graveyard) picks its way across the mine spoil heap from another era and down through the terraced fields to emerge conveniently near the village pub.
Following the sea
We were set on walking the coastal footpath to a quiet cove that day though, so we turned down an unmade road and then slipped again onto the footpath laving the expanse of Perran beach far below and with the low tide the sands seem to follow us for some time along our route – the Tamarisk sometimes parting to reveal glimpses of families paddling the tide line.
Stackhouse and the Admiral
We like a rocky cove below the imposing presence of Acton Castle known as Stackhouse Cove after the Admiral of the same name. The Admiral lived in the castle when now called away to London and used to conduct experiments into see weeds in the rocky pools that stretch far out into the sea. He had a sea pool built for his wife beautifully hewn from the rocks with neatly cut steps and as elegant as a Japanese plunge pool is it perfectly concealed on the rocky ledges guarding the eastern slops of the Cove near the ruined boat house. He was also the landlord for the infamous John Carter of the Smuggling family that I wrote about in “The smugglers of Prussia Cove” that worked Prussia Cove just beyond Cudden point and made good use o his absences although as somebody wryly remarked he couldn’t have been totally ignorant of his tenant’s adventures.
After our quiet hours on the cove we took the lower route back to Perranuthnoe and it came as almost a shock to reach the bustle of the village after the quiet serenity of our little cove. It wasn’t until we picked our way up passed the parked roads that line the roads at this time of year and walked across the field to the peace of home that we turned to again admire the view back over Perranuthnoe.
If you would like to explore the area around Perranuthnoe a little more why not try these blogs