There is certain mellowness about those dusky evenings, when the winter storms are spent and the summer sea laps languidly against ancient harbour walls. Here in west Cornwall we are spoilt with so many lovely sheltered harbours to visit for a seafood supper and we recently made our way around Mounts Bay to renew our acquaintance with Mousehole and Newlyn.
Two Harbours – two great seafood suppers
The contrasting harbour views we always see gleaming in the sunlight across the bay from us each herald two very different harbours – Newlyn still a rugged working port and Mousehole a melow cluster of fishermen’s cottages fringing a delightful tiny beach with time worn sea walls. We had two very different seafood suppers on two mellow evenings just absorbing the atmosphere of the end of the day in Cornwall.
An evening in Newlyn
Newlyn harbour still has fishing fleet working from the port and the other evening they were moored, clanking gently as we drove passed. Slightly battered veterans of many nautical miles and lashing waves, now neatly moored with all of the air of a sailor in port.
Newlyn isn’t just about the fishing though, it is host to a burgeoning arts scene with smart galleries and design studios jostling with the old pubs and restaurants. Check out the Contemporary Newlyn Gallery established in 1895 or the Newlyn Filmhouse or for a spot of retail therapy the famous Welbeck Tiles beloved of glossy interiors magazines.
The Queen Elizabeth II an honoured visitor to Cornwall
On the evening we visited the new Aircraft carrier the Queen Elizabeth II was an arresting site moored quite near to the village and we’d already watched the helicopters ferrying stores to her for the afternoon. So after we’d parked just under the no nonsense sea wall I walked along to take a snap and see the monument to the fishermen before we headed up towards the town to eat. Sorry my little camera doesn’t do her majestic size justice but I did share some great pro photos to our B&B facebook page
Supper at Mackerel Sky
We visited Mackerel Sky again, a bit of a fishy haven and we were so lucky that the waiter found us the last remaining table tucked in a corner on the pavement.
Charles was in his element with a starter of crab claws whilst I chose sea bream and the Mounts’ Bay sole cooked with samphire and capers was just too hard to resist , with a shared side of new potatoes and salad.
Somehow the waft of garlic and the bustle of traffic made our evening in Newlyn all the more enjoyable in our pavement haven and a complete break from our ordinary lives.
An evening in Mousehole
We haven’t visited Mousehole since the Christmas lights so it was a real contrast to see the harbour that evening in a holiday mood, in the last of the days golden sunshine.
Little boys in wet suite plunged fearlessly into the waters and surf boards were carefully stacked against the walls beside a tiny beach. We parked again under the tall granite harbour wall before ambling around the harbour to the Ship Inn for the traditional seaside favourite of Fish and Chips.
We spent two very different evenings absorbing the atmosphere around a Cornish harbour and each one as enjoyable as the last with great suppers of contemporary fish tapas or traditional pub food.
Were will you be wondering on a dusky evening in Cornwall I wonder?
Try my Little Black book of Great places to eat within easy reach of Ednovean Farm!
For more inspiration about local places to eat do try my little black book of great places to eat!