Cadgwith a fishing village lost in time

Traditional fishing harbour and village - Cadgwith

We looked back to Cadgwith with the fishing boats pulled up just below the cottages at low tide

If you are planning to visit just one fishing village in Cornwall then make it Cadgwith sheltering in the lea of the most southerly point of The Lizard.

There is a timeless air about the glorious jumble of thatched cottages hugging the slipway to the sea where the fishing boats lay on the shingle beach waiting for the tide, just as they always have been over the centuries.

Two rough hewn granite posts topped by jaunty ovoid boulders mark the entrance to Cadgwith giving it a sense of stepping back in time to a carefully guarded community unchanging with the centuries.

 

Cadgwith the fishing village

Traditional fishing harbour and village - Cadgwith

We looked down to Cadgwith with the fishing boats pulled up below the cottages at low tide

 

Cadgwith started life as a collection of fishing cellars just above the same shingle beach that is still in use today to haul the boats from the water and it wasn’t until the sixteenth century that the first cottages were built. Tucked here and there intersected by narrow lanes and alleys they follow the topography of the hillside so perfectly that they seem almost a part of the land.

The early Cornish name for Cadgwith is Porthcaswith 1358 which evolved to Por Cadgwith by 1699 : – a harbour of a thicket

 

Parking above the cove

 

Village street with Pick up trucks Cadgwith

 

Walking down to Cadgwith passed thatched cottages

The footpath to Cadgwith

 

We parked just above Cadgwith and walked down the footpath to the sea passed the tin chapel into the village where fishing boats and no nonsense trucks spilled over from the Fishing Cove and sturdy men went quietly about their business.

 

Fishing boats

The Cadgwith Inn

Sandwiches - traditional Cadgwith Inn

We hurried on unsure about the time to the Cadgwith Inn, as Charles had a certain gleam in his eye about lunch, intent on sampling his personal favourite – a crab sandwich. He always maintains the best crabs in Cornwall are caught in Cadgwith fresh from the sea and fat from feeding on the pure waters of the cove.

In the November sunshine, walkers from the Coastal path were already picnicking on the benches but for once I felt the romance of a fire simmering in the grate call me inside.

The Cadgwith Inn is a “Singing pub” too, famous for the singers on a Friday night evocatively set just above the slipway within earshot of the sea

 

There are several other places to eat in Cadgwith “In season”   “The Cellars” with a beautifully cobbled courtyard where two of our American guests told us about amazing Fish chowder or a simple Fisherman’s cottage selling sandwiches from the kitchen just beside the slipway.

Walking from Cadgwith

 

View from the cliff down to Cadgwith harbourCadgwith is on the Southwest Coast path and we walked up from the village along the cliff towards Poltesco and stopped to look back down over the village before reaching the first headland with probably what is probably an old huer’s hut.

Huers huts

Huer hut for spotting shoals of PilchardsFrom twin lookouts either side of the cove a lookout would watch for the shoals of herring shouting “Hevva, Hevva Hevva” to alert the fishermen below. These days the shoals have gone but fishing still continues for Crab and Lobster.

 

 

 

As we turned to walk back to the cove the sweet scent of violets drifted through the air as delicate as a thread of lace and it drew my attention from the sea to the tiny purple flowers nestling under the shelter of the bank – pretty good for November I think!

 

Thatched cottage - Cadgwith

The Devil’s Frying Pan

Back in the cove and we would have liked to walk on towards “The Devil’s Frying Pan” (Hugga Dridgee in Cornish) the dramatic remains of a collapsed sea cave that has formed a sea lagoon bounded by an archway to the sea. Unfortunately Charles’s knee had reached its tolerance for the day but this is also a favourite spot for kayakers to explore in calm weather but beware of the wild waves of winter churning the boulders captive in the depths for the devils cooking.

 

The Todden

The distinctive rock formations of the Lizard - Cadgwith Cove

View to the Huers hut from The Todden as the tide turned

 

We lingered instead on the Toddon – a spit of land that separates The Fishing Cove from the Bathing Beach with a natural tunnel under the rocks to connect the two.

Small sandy cove beside the Todden - Cadgwith

The sheltered bathing cove

 

A cross had been erected here, securely lashed to the ground, ready for the Christmas lights. We watched the waves start to build as the tide turned again bringing great rolling waves back towards the shore just as it had always done, before walking back through the thatched cottages of

Christmas lights in position on tradition Fishing Cove

The Christmas lights were already in place through the village

 

Cadgwith, a village packed with fishing gear and lobster pots, Capstans and pilchard cellars, Fishing boats and pickup trucks. So I hope you have the chance to visit Cadgwith on The Lizard Peninsular.

Thatched cottage and fishing boat - Cadgwith

 

Fishing gear CadgwithCadgwith – A perfect Cornish village shaking off the modern world of tourism and bustle and still settled in its unchanged unhurried pace of life, distilled over the centuries. So different to our visit to Lamorna on the Land’s End Peninsula the other week but totally utterly, charming.

 

About Christine Taylor

Charles and Christine Taylor have hosted Luxury Bed and Breakfast at Ednovean Farm Nr Penzance in West Cornwall since 1991 and live there with three cats and eight horses including a Spanish Stallion called Danni. Ednovean Farm has been awarded AA five star gold for Bed and breakfast and is included in The Michelin Guide and The Alastair Sawday Guide . The Farmhouse and gardens has been featured in BBC Homes and Antiques, Homes and Gardens. Period Living and 25 Beautiful Homes as well as being used as a film and photo shoot location. Christine writes a weekly blog about life on the farm and garden with an occasional series about places of interest in West Cornwall concentrating on those off the beaten track places atha only the locals find

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